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Franz Gruber takes a closer look at the Anaconda I
captured
outside of a Ticuna village in the Peruvian Amazon |
Well it’s that time again; time to write another story for the Cargo
Report. After the lull of our winter season and now the roar of our
spring show season, it’s tough to get my brain back on track to sit down
and write. My early thoughts this issue were to write about some
adventures in Haiti. From the mid 60’s to early 70’s, I had many the
adventurous trip to the wilds of that mysterious island nation. However,
with the world of turmoil that we now live in, I have decided not to ‘go
there’ just now. Even though it was, collectively, some of the best
times of my life, the story has it darker parts due to the oppressive
nature of the Haitian government under Papa Doc Duvalier and later, his
son, and the ever-present Ton Ton Macutes. So, that shall remain a story
for another time, opting instead this time for something a little
lighter.
Before becoming infatuated with plants in the early 70’s, I had a
lifelong interest in reptiles and all things slippery and scaly. My
family came to the Ft. Lauderdale, Florida area at the end of the ‘40s,
and I was raised in a place that was then on the edge of the Everglades.
My father was an outdoorsman |
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who loved all of nature, and frequently brought home a turtle, possum or
other creature that he found crossing the road, and would build a pen so
I could keep it for a while as a ‘pet’. Always, we would release it
after a few days or weeks, when the novelty had worn off. Unexplainably,
my interests gravitated towards snakes and other cold-blooded creatures.
Herpetology became an avocation then near obsession and after meeting
others with similar interests, I started traveling to far away places in
search of ever more exotic species. |
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Thus I eventually met my first bromeliad and gradually, for various
reasons, my reptile involvement was suppressed, but not my interest. By
1975 I no longer kept a large collection of creatures and in 1976
started Tropiflora. Over the intervening years, many, many trips have
been mounted to far-flung jungles and deserts in search of botanical
bounty. Along the way, many encounters with my reptile friends have made
the trips even more interesting, joyful and fulfilling for this ex-herper.
So to hopefully bring a smile or maybe even a shiver to you this spring,
here are a few anecdotes about encounters of the slithery kind that we
have had over the years while collecting plants. The Cargo Report has
often mentioned reptile encounters: like the time I stepped on a very
large alligator one night while snake hunting, to reptile collecting
ad-ventures we
had in Venezuela on our first trip there in 1975.
However, these
stories will be limited only to those that were accidental or
surprise encounters we had while pursuing plants. |

A large gator we encountered
in the Everglades
Photo ©Ondrej Lukscheiter |
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My late, great friend Wally Berg was a true outdoorsman in his
own right, and few things caused him any trepidation in the
wilds…except snakes, spiders and other creepy things. When we
inevitably crossed paths with a reptile, Wally was content to
step to the other side of the trail and make a hasty exit. All
too frequently for his liking, I would drop everything and pick
up the creature and bring it over to a wide-eyed Wally to
declare its beauty and explain its virtues. For his part, Wally
was at best tolerant, hoping I’d just put it down so we could
continue on our way. I’d read his reaction and only occasionally
ask him to touch or hold a specimen so I could get a picture! I
knew how far to push him and never asked him to hold anything
dangerous or too creepy. Never did I ask him to hold a snake. As
a result, Wally never refused, though definitely had the look of
someone long-suffering as I cheerfully placed his hand in just
the right position. Wally was definitely a good sport!
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On one
collecting trip on the Amazon River we beached our small boat on
a tangled shoreline to explore the swampy forest. Ankle deep
water flooded the forest and fish of surprisingly large size
could be seen making a hasty retreat among the buttress roots of
the trees at our approach. We fanned out, five of us, to search
for plant specimens. The canopy high above was dense and little
undergrowth was found in the dimly litzone of the forest floor.
The occasional butterfly distracted my attention as did the
splashing schools of fleeing fish. Suddenly my eyes detected an
unusual movement that I instinctively knew was that of a large
snake. My reaction was swift and in a moment I had captured a
fifteen foot long Anaconda in the shallow, tea-colored water.
No one saw me catch the snake so
I carried the protesting reptile |
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towards the boat where the others were waiting. When Wally saw
me, for a moment had the “God, please don’t ask me to hold that
thing!” look in his eyes. I didn’t, but asked that everyone make
room on the cramped boat for our new passenger. My camera was in
a nearby Ticuna Indian village where we had left our supplies on
this rainy morning. No problem! I had the entire front end of
the boat to myself and perched on the prow with my writhing
companion. Wally, Franz and the two man crew crowded into the
last three feet or so of the fourteen foot boat. Reaching the
village in about fifteen minutes, I got Wally to take a
photograph of me holding the ponderous snake for posterity
before releasing it to the |
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dark,
deep waters of the Amazon, much to everyone’s relief. Costa
Rica has always been a Mecca for naturalists and it was venomous
snakes that first lured me to that country when things were much
more wild and pristine back in 1968. Since then we have traveled
to the verdant country many a time. One occasion Wally, Dorothy,
Linda and I were picked up by our friend Chester Skotak and
driven to his house in Atenas. The road was rural, but paved,
and as we rode along chatting in the dark, my eyes scanned the
road ahead in the glow of the headlamps, an involuntary reflex
that comes of years of nighttime road collecting. Suddenly I
shouted STOP and Chester hit the brakes thinking he was in
imminent danger of striking someone. I jumped from the car
before it fully stopped and raced into the glow of the lights,
retrieving a five-foot long, gray patterned rat snake. |
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I
showed off the beautiful specimen in the glow of the headlights
and came around to get back in. Chester and Linda had other
ideas, not wishing to share the front seat with an unknown
reptile. Compromise was met and I traveled the rest of the way
home with my arm extended out the window, holding the struggling
snake. Next morning, exploring a nearby creek, we saw many
large Basilisk lizards, known locally as ‘Jesus Christi’ lizards
because of their ability to run across the surface of water! Not
easy to catch, I nevertheless captured a large, prehistoric
looking male with a crest and fin down its back and tail.
Naturally, it was impossible to hold and photograph the creature
and if I put it down it would it disappear in less than the
blink of an eye, so I once again called on Wally. Anguish was
written on his face, but he never protested as I placed the
tense lizard just so in his trembling hands. |
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Moments later we watched it race away on its hind legs like a
small dinosaur. Ever the good sport, however reluctant, Wally
held a variety of creatures from Poison Dart frogs to grotesque
toads found during jungle forays. Perhaps the best creature
encounter I had with Wally happened in the high Andes of
Ecuador. It was there that we found what appeared to be a snake
crossing a muddy road in the foggy forest. A closer look found
it to be instead a giant earthworm! I had heard of these
creatures, but had never before seen one. Occasionally of bright
hues, this one was just brown, but about three feet long! I
photographed it on the clay road but knew that the picture
lacked anything to show the scale of the giant critter. So… Poor
ol’ Wally. I asked him to pick it up to show its dramatic size.
Wally balked. “Does it bite?” “Doesn’t have a real mouth or any
teeth” I said. “Yuck” was his reply at the prospect of handling
the slimy thing. Finally we compromised and Wally picked it up
using his handkerchief. It became one of my favorite photos of
my great adventures with Wally. |
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Linda atop Ayers Rock (Uluru) with the
Olgas (Kata Tjuta) in the background.
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Linda
and I traveled a few times through Southeast Asia, Australia and
New Zealand (where there are no snakes!) and had lots of fun and
a few memorable creature encounters, some of which we have
written about before. For example; Linda’s tarantula encounter
in the Australian outback, covered a few years ago in the Cargo
Report, was really pretty scary. |
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My
humorous but smelly baptism by a monitor lizard in the
Philippines got quite a few chuckles from Cargo Report readers a
few years back. Some of our favorite creature encounters were in
Australia, a place noted for its abundant reptilian life. Here
we canoed past salt water crocodiles nearly as big as our boat
and swam with Johnston’s crocodiles, which are supposed to be
fairly harmless. I ‘fished’ for file snakes with my feet among
Pandanus roots in a pristine billabong. On a camping trip
to Litchfield Park, we saw our first wild ‘Frilled Lizards’ and
just had to catch one. |
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Actually the big males depend on their huge, flaring neck
display for defense and they are actually quite slow and
lumbering when they run. We ran down a few and took some great
pictures. In Singapore, a trip to a reserve to observe Vanda
orchids turned into a search for flying snakes. Yes, they
exist, and I did get to photograph one! |
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Still,
nothing else can compare to the reptilian adventures we have had
in the American tropics. In pre-plant hunting days I made many
reptile trips to Mexico and on one such trip was bitten on the
thumb by a rattlesnake, but received no venom! Outside the
Indian village of Tamala in Colima, I spent several hours
walking the mountain forest with a four foot long Mexican Beaded
Lizard, the Mexican equivalent of the Gila Monster, clamped onto
my trouser leg. |
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Many
other close calls, by proximity, have occurred in Costa Rica,
Venezuela and Ecuador, where we found ourselves in ‘striking
distance’ of some very annoyed venomous snakes. No deadly
mishaps though. One of the spookiest was the time in Panama
where we were in the mountain forest collecting and came back to
the road, dumped our specimens and found a deadly pit viper
amongst the collected plants. |
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It
was hiding in a bromeliad and did not emerge until it was in the
sack. On the same trip, a particularly snaky trip as I recall,
Wally came unglued when I was handling a large coral snake to
try and photograph it. He took my picture, he said, so he’d have
evidence as to what became of me. |
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No
confidence! As I have said many times in the past, collecting
is just about as much fun as someone can have, and if you take
the surprise encounters with snakes and spiders in stride, they
only enrich what is already a smorgasbord for the senses.
Speaking for myself, I never consider a trip a complete success
unless I get that tingle you only get when you realize you are
standing uncomfortably close to something completely wild and
free and possibly deadly. To each his own! |
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