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The road seemed
endless, an arrow-straight washboarded rut in the desert sand. Mile
after mile we sped at a much too fast clip through the monotonous
thorny scrub. Choking dust filled the jeep and the noise level was
too high for conversation. I gripped the steering wheel with both
hands and Wally held on tight, lest we be bounced out of our seats
by the bone-jarring track. In the mirror, a huge dust cloud
followed, threatening to overtake us if we slowed
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down. Where the
road headed we didn’t have a clue, it wasn’t on the map.
We only knew that we had come much too far to turn around now.
After some hours, the tiny village of Pumbochanga appeared on
the horizon. The road passed directly into the center, an acre
of muddy earth devoid of trees or grass, surrounded by crude
adobe-walled, tiled and thatch roofed dwellings. No one, not
man nor beast, was to be seen. Our dust cloud caught up as we
stepped from the vehicle for a much-needed stretch. Gazing
about, we wondered aloud where everyone was. Curiosity won out
and little by little some children emerged from the shadowy
doorways and cautiously approached. Children, but no adults.
It was rather eerie. The urchins were a ragged lot, dirty from
play, with tattered clothing. |
Without a
doubt, this was amongst the poorest towns we had seen in Ecuador.
Wally had opened the back of the jeep to reach some water, and took
out a handful of candies to offer the children. At first, they only
stared in silence, so Wally put a candy in his mouth and handed me
one. Gradually they approached, first one, then several. Within
moments some women appeared with even more children. Soon we were
awash in a sea of silent children with outstretched hands. Wally put
a single candy in each dirty little palm, smiling as they squealed
with glee while others quietly waited their turn.
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In the years we had
been traveling to this beautiful country, it had become our practice
to give gifts of little treats, toys and clothing to the less
fortunate people we frequently encountered. Although these people
had little in the way of personal possessions, they seemed to be
perfectly healthy and happy, though life was tough in this harsh
environment. Soon we had pulled out sacks of clean used clothing,
which we had brought for just this purpose, and began to give out
various items to the growing crowd of mothers. Some took items
eagerly, while other were more cautious, perhaps skeptical of our
intentions. When it became apparent we were just friendly, if
quirky, strangers, they lost all inhibitions and |
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cued up for their
share. No matter what we handed them, or what size it was, they were
always grateful. Soon, some bananas appeared and were offered to us
as ‘barter’. On other occasions, it was fruit or eggs or cooked
food, and sometimes they gave flowers when they saw the plants we
had in the truck. Almost always, we would toss out the ‘barter’
items after driving on for a distance, but we had learned to accept
such items graciously, as it was necessary for them to justify
accepting gifts from us. Once we had brought gifts from Linda to a
family she met on an earlier trip and they wanted to send her their
prize chicken. We declined, explaining that we would be unable to
take the gift onto the airplane. They looked |
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puzzled, but accepted
our excuse. On another occasion, after first giving a twenty-mile
ride to an elderly man walking his lame horse, we gave his rather
large family clothing, toys and the old gentleman a pair of reading
glasses. He was so grateful that he invited us to dine with his
family, and gave us a huge rock covered with quartz
crystals! Unfortunately, it was far too large for us to take back,
so we sadly declined the beautiful gift.
On earlier trips,
Wally and I would bring candy and used clothing as favors, bribes
and gifts to help us pass the innumerable inspections by police who
always had their hands out for some sort of ‘mordida’. When
Linda made her first trip, she raised gift giving to an art form,
bringing coloring books, crayons, toys and an array of treats. Linda
started giving items away at random to the |
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always-needy people along
our way, stopping at farms and whenever she saw someone walking
along a dusty road who looked like they needed a smile. Before our
trip was over, we had given away not just our candy and toys, but
our own dirty clothing, camping gear and other items we had brought
for our own use. My heart went out to her as she searched the truck
at the end of our trip for something to give to a woman she met who
made a meager living fashioning ornaments of marzipan. We had given
away almost everything by that time, and all she found was a half
jar of peanut butter for her. Though she couldn’t speak with the
lady in Spanish, it didn’t stop her from |
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communicating.
Words
weren’t necessary to express her feelings, and the two of them
hugged and cried for a few tender moments before we departed.
Linda’s brand of
‘lollipop diplomacy’ was addictive, and the smiles and happiness
it brought to the always-surprised recipients led us to do more on
all future trips. Wally would plan ahead, buying up inexpensive toys
and favors on sale after Halloween and Christmas, saving them for
future trips. Linda and Wally’s wife Dorothy would get used
clothing, especially small sizes and children’s clothing, from
church ladies who knew of our frequent trips.
It was Wally who
found the item that brought the biggest smiles. He bought packs of
toy sunglasses, most of them with |
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Mickey Mouse and other characters on
them, and gave them out to children across the country. You could
scarcely believe how they loved these toy glasses! Kids of all ages
wore them proudly, and their parents beamed with approval. These
tiny gifts reaped a huge benefit in satisfaction for us. Nothing can
compare to the feeling we got from spreading this little bit of joy
to the otherwise hard lives of these little children. |
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Over the years, we
crossed the country in every direction, collecting plants, taking
photos, and spreading a little happiness whenever we could. Years
later, Wally was in Ecuador with John Anderson, while separately Bob
Spivey and I were there at the same time. As our truck approached a
tiny Amazonian village near Loreto we saw some children running
towards the road ahead. As we passed, in unison, they whipped out
little sunglasses and put them on, waving as we went by. I turned to
Bob and said, “Well, Wally’s been here!”
On our many
Ecuadorian adventures, we found a wealth of happiness in our
collecting and exploring. Nothing can surpass the camaraderie we
experienced and the deep bonds of friendship we made with each other
through shared excitement, difficulties and sometimes danger. But
truly, we rarely had any experiences to exceed the satisfaction and
joy of bringing smiles to the faces of strangers we met on the way.
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